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Carson Black enjoys a slow boat along the rivers and canals of the Anjou region of France
Sick of forking out for expensive flights, queuing at airports then basting on a beach all day, we were determined to try something different this summer.
Cruising along the rivers and canals of rural France in your own boat sounded perfect. Great weather, excellent food, beautiful scenery and easy access by road and ferry made it even more tempting. But one problem: we had never been sailing before. We contacted Nicols, the specialist French river cruising company, who said it didn't matter a jot. Their fleet of motor cruisers and custom made holiday packages are designed for both practiced sailors and beginners like us. We would be given full guidance and instruction. The number of repeat customers they attract seemed to bear witness to the success of their holidays. So we booked a 2-cabin Confort 900 to sail from Nicols base at Sablé sur Sarthe in the Anjou region of France.
The journey from Portsmouth to Caen by Brittany Ferries was a great start. Boarding took 25 minutes from arriving to stepping into our cabin, complete with sea view, comfortable beds with fresh crisp sheets and bathroom with shower. On deck there were an array of cafes, bars, and things to do like whale watching or two cinemas to visit. There is also ample provision for children, with games rooms, entertainers and cafes with well-priced kids menus.
Seven hours later we were in Caen, where we stayed overnight and discovered it is far more than just a port. It is a city steeped in history. You can visit the war memorials, the Norman castle and cathedral, where, incidentally, William the Conquer is buried. There are also lots of shops and restaurants. The next morning, refreshed, we drove the two and a half hours to Sable, where our Nicols boat was ready.
The Nicols staff gave plenty of advice on the route we might take and places of interest, then an introduction to our boat. This had two sleeping cabins, two toilets one with a hand-held shower, a mid-deck with a well quipped kitchen with fridge, gas hob, grill, oven and every utensil you would ever need. Plus two upper decks - one with a table, the other with an outdoor steering wheel and space for sunbathing. Up top was a roof where we stored two bikes.
Our rapid lesson in managing the boat included casting off and landing, negotiating locks and river etiquette. Then we were off. My wife became a deckhand, whose primary duties included leaping on and off the boat as we approached or left moorings, tying and untying us to the riverbank. Deckhands on a two-man crew are also responsible for the more onerous task of opening and shutting lock gates, which she performed admirably, though rarely with a smile. That left me with the skilled job of steering the thing.
We headed north along the Sarthe towards Le Mans, the capital of the Maine region. The river and its adjoining canals have been a trading and transport route since the middle ages and many of the little villages and towns date from then. The Maine region, sandwiched between Normandy and the Loire, is beautiful and still somewhat undiscovered, thankfully. As we cruised upriver we rarely saw any other boats and the only signs of human life were a few fishermen on the bank. But we did see plenty of wildlife, herons zigzagging across the water, as if showing us the way, dragonflies dancing in front of the steering wheel, before darting off.
The first lock we encountered was manned, (some are not and we were rather nervous of doing it on our own), so we were grateful for the 20-something tanned lockkeeper who spoke very little English but guided us through.
We then docked in Solesmes, a small town an hour upriver from Sable, known for it's Abbaye Saint-Pierre de Solesmes, perched precariously on the river bank, and the world famous Gregorian chanting of its monks.
We strolled through quiet old streets to a tiny restaurant, manned only by the chef patron, where there was only one other customer, a monk drinking cider and tucking into the local dish of moules and frites. Our three course meal served with a bottle of sauvignon blanc was delicious and set us back 55 euros.
Our first night on the boat was an experience. There were two toilets but they were tiny, this is not a trip for very large people. The bed was surprisingly comfy and we soon got used to the very gentle bobbing on the water. Sitting on deck as the sun went down, with no one around, birds and insects skimming the water, we realised why people love this sort of holiday and come back for more.
Next stop was Malicorne, famous for its pottery and local artists. There are exhibitions and tours at the pottery throughout the summer, which are well worth a visit.
Then to Noyen sur Sarthe, a lovely old village and home to the superb Auberge de la Rose restauant. Here we enjoyed a three course lunch with small carafe of local rose for an incredible 12.50 euros each. Like many of the smallest villages, Noyen has an excellent chacuterie and patisserie, where we stocked up on bread, cakes and cold meats before setting off again up-river.
It took a couple of days to get used to docking, and there were some scary moments where my deckhand almost hit the water instead of the river bank. This, of course, led to a fair bit of shouting (Leap leap! I can’t, I can’t! God, just jump!). But by day-three we were getting used to the procedure and also the motion of the boat, which lingers even when you step on dry land.
We even got used to the unmanned locks, where one of you gets out and opens the gates - great for the biceps - whilst the other steers the boat into the lock. Each lock takes about 30-40 minutes to navigate, depending on the size and how strong you are feeling.
Next stop was Fille an even smaller medieval village than Noyen, where within minutes we were sipping coffee at the local bar, and tucking into fresh early morning croissants. Fille offered a high-class restaurant called the Auberge de Rallye, with full formal waiter service. This was more expensive – four courses for 28 euros and wine at 19 euros per bottle - but we decided to treat ourselves and could see the stylish décor, attention to detail and mouth-watering menus were worth it.
The waiter brought us a complimentary amuse bouche of pate and a tiny glass of fish-based creamy chilled soup to whet the appetite. My starter included thick slices of delicious salmon, avocado, crab and pink grapefruit. The beef for the main course was delicious followed by strawberry desert, topped off by coffee and chocolates in the garden. The bill was 80 euros, more than we had paid in simpler restaurants along the way, but still good value, especially by British standards.
We had planned to continue up river to Le Mans, home of the famous 24-hour race, but realised that would be pushing it, and this holiday was definitely not about rushing, so we turned around at Fille and headed back down river, this time overnighting at La Suze. This friendly, bustling market town had a good selection of shops, patisseries, restaurants and bars. We decided to stay two days because there was plenty to do. There is a lovely 5 kilometre walk (or cycle) along the river bank here, taking in nearby villages. But our first stop was the sports bar bang in the centre of the town, full of local people having a midday coffee and beer and a flutter on the horses. Bookmaking is government-run in France and most towns have a bar where you can place bets on horse racing and trotting, football and any other sports the French love. The atmosphere is great: noisy excitement rising as the live races on the bar's TV screen progress, with locals greeting each other, chatting about the events unfolding, placing bets, ordering their drinks.
That night we had dinner at the Aubege de Lion, just across the bridge and found a friendly welcome in an artfully decorated dining room, with French families already tucking in. My starter of cheese, herb and crème brulee, accompanied with dressed salad with melon, was mouth watering. My wife chose the warm goats cheese on a mini pastry with salad, which was equally tasty and we both had lamb for the main course, tender and pink, exactly as we had ordered, served with green beans and frites. The carafe of local wine for 7 euros was excellent and the bill was just 42 euros, (£33.50) – amazing value for such a memorable meal.
On the way back down river we stopped at a number of little villages, such as Parce sur Sarthe, some for an hour, others for an evening. Everyone we met was friendly and every village had at least one good restaurant.
Returning to base at Sable was a sad moment. We had really enjoyed the trip and would miss the boat, even the unmanned locks! Sable itself is a lovely town with an array of creperies so we treated ourselves to pancakes and a beer.
We loved the trip, it gave us the freedom to roam, the peace to relax, and access to a real taste of France, with spectacular scenery, wildlife, food and wine and hardly any tourists. We will definitely go back.
TIPS
On the ferry try breakfast in the restaurant (not the canteen). At £9.50 per person, it's a bit more than the cafeteria, but you get unlimited fresh fruit, cereals, and croissants, a full cooked breakfast and lashings of coffee or tea.
Plan a route and places you want to see before you set sail on your boat, but be flexible. If your itinery seems crammed, skip some.
Stock up at a supermarket before you board. You will see shops en route with lovely local fare, which are worth supporting, but they can be limited and you may arrive when they are closed. So take essentials like coffee, tea, oil, butter, milk, loo rolls, cold meats, beer and a bottle of wine or two to get you started.
Many river boaters set off early in the morning, arriving at their destination early or mid morning, when the shops are open. This also means you are not sailing in the midday sun, which on hot days can turn your boat into a sauna. You can then rest or nap in the afternoon (like the locals) and go out for dinner in the evening.
THE BOAT
Nicols offers river and canal holidays on a range of self-drive cruisers for parties of between two - 12 people and no previous boating experience is required.
Boat hire prices start from 350 Euros for a two-night short break or 699 Euros for a one week trip. Prices for the Confort 900, sleeping up to four people, start at 647 Euros for a two-night short break or 1,294 Euros for one week.
You can sail from 18 different bases in regions such as Burgundy, Alsace, Franche Comte, the Loire Valley, Brittany and the south of France, plus Germany and Portugal.
See www.boat-renting-nicols.co.uk or contact Nicols’s English-speaking team on 02392 401320 or email nicols@nicols.com.
THE FERRY
Brittany Ferries operates routes from Portsmouth, Poole and Plymouth to five destinations in Normandy and Brittany. Travel overnight by luxury cruise-ferry in the your own cabin with en-suite facilities or whisk across the channel in three hours on the summer fast-ferry from Portsmouth to Cherbourg. Fares start at £79 each way for a car plus two.
Book online at www.brittanyferries.com or call 0330 159 7000. Brittany Ferries also has money-saving sail-and-stay offers, visit www.brittanyferries.com/offers.
THE CAR
Citroen does distinctive better than any other car maker. And that best describes their latest C4 derivative - the Cactus. Eye-catching, oddball and quirky also spring to mind. But are those the qualities that top buyers' lists of needs when choosing a car? Maybe not. But the Cactus has a lot going for it to persuade you to give it a go - economical, comfortable, spacious and fun. As far as economy goes, no Cactus derivative will cost you more than £20 a year to tax. We used less than a tank full of diesel to cover 500 miles. On such a long drive comfort is essential and the Cactus delivered. The famously smooth Citroen trademark suspension glided over sleeping policemen and potholes both sides of the channel, and there is enough adjustment in the front seats to accommodate all drivers. Ample space in the boot allowed us to have three pieces of luggage with space to spare to bring back a few cases of vino.
The Cactus is not a true cross-over or a pure SUV, more a raised hatchback. And its higher driving position can be an advantage. The interior is spacious, easily accommodating two adults and three kids and scores a respectable four stars in its Euro NCAP safety test, coming with multiple airbags and electronic stability control as standard. One unique feature - a Marmite factor here - are the rubber side panels - you'll love them or hate them.
THE TRAVEL FACTS
Road: 200 km from Caen to Sable sur Sarthe. There are toll roads, which are fast but if you stay on them for the whole journey it can cost around 15 euros.
Rail: Paris – Le Mans by TGV, 55 minutes.
Then Le Mans to Sarthe by TER, 30 minutes.
Info Office de Tourism de Sarthe 0044 43 40 22 50
www.tourism-en-sarthe.com