Surfing in Bidart, France

Bidart: the best of Basque Country

Fiona Webster finds a haven for families and surf fans in south west France

The prospect of taking two of our rather large kids on a ferry to France seemed a challenge.

It was fine when they were toddlers and viewed any family journey as world-class adventure. But fifteen years on, would they really still want to go with us and what would they do when we got there?

Thankfully we chose the Basque coast, which seemed to have something for every age group: fabulous surf beaches, plenty of bars, wonderful food, great shopping and barely a Brit in site. A true French experience, though the inhabitants of Bidart and Biarritz probably would not thank you for saying so. For this is Basque country, the historic corner of both France and Spain, known for its fierce fight for independence. The language is different, the customs are different and even the road signs are different.

Bidart, which dates back to the 12th century, nestles next to the bustling city of Biarritz and is one the best places to base yourself for a family holiday and exploring the Basque region.

Getting there

Getting there is easy. You can hop on a Brittany Ferry cruise ship in Portsmouth or Plymouth and wake up in Santander the next day. Our ferry had a swimming pool, a la Carte restaurant, two cinemas, a spa, games rooms and nightly entrainment. The family cabins had four comfortable beds, an ensuite bathroom and shower, tea making facilities and a television, but the best part for us was watching for whales and dolphins on the top deck as the sun went down over the ocean.

We arrived in Santander the next day having eaten a hearty breakfast on board ship. The drive from Santander to Biarritz takes about two and half hours along an easily navigated coastal motorway. We drove a Toyota Avensis Tourer 2.2 diesel, big enough to accommodate comfortably four adults, their luggage and be frugal enough on fuel to only need one refill of a full tank for the whole ten day trip.
Take money for tolls and stop at Bilbao en route to see the amazing Frank Gehry designed Guggenheim museum.

Côte Basque

It’s hard not to be impressed by the coastal scenery when you arrive in Bidart. It boasts one of the longest stretches of coastline of all the Côte Basque towns, with six beaches stretched over 5km, which all have life guards so your family can swim, surf and even paraglide in safety. If you haven’t surfed it’s never too late to learn. We saw surfers aged six to 60 riding the waves and there are several surf schools where you can get a 2-hour lesson, surfboard and wet suit for 35 – 40 Euros. Our two children tried surfing (pictured above) and after an hour or so of wobbling were soon riding the waves pretty smoothly.

The beaches are overlooked by beautiful cliff top paths which lead into the town where the Basque heritage is everywhere, with music, festivals and foodie markets. Try the Saturday morning market for wonderful locally produced honey, olives, paella and bric-a-brac, which pleased my daughter, overlooked by a bar where were you can watch the French girls stroll by, which pleased my son (and husband). There’s les mutxiko (Basque dancing) every second Sunday of the month where song sheets are given out to visitors and the locals know all the words. During the summer there are lots of regional fairs, Basque dancing, exhibitions, surf competitions, concerts, Basque games and the Autumn Fete (Udazkeneko Bestak) at the end of the season.

Accommodation

There is a range of accommodation in the area, from some excellent family campsites with both pitches and chalets to five star hotels in Biarritz. We plumped for a three bedroomed private villa in Bidart, which we found through UK firm Holiday Lettings, who offered a great range in the area and were knowledgeable and helpful.

They recommended Villa Kaioa for our needs and they were right. It was perfect, private with some of the best views in Bidart, overlooking the cliffs, sea, and beach below. On our first night we decided we didn't need to go out and instead sat on the verandah with bottle of local wine (three Euros a bottle from the nearby Inter Marche supermarket) listening to the waves and watching the birds swooping between the cliffs.

Villa Kaioa had everything you might need whatever your family’s age range. There was Wi-Fi and television with a range of French and English DVDs for older children who like to stay up late. Plus a long garden with badminton net and all sorts of racquets and sports equipment. The villa was well furnished with comfortable beds, two large dining tables, one inside and one out, a fully equipped kitchen with a useful fridge freezer and a utility room with a washing machine. The owner Adeline was friendly and helpful, greeting us on arrival with a traditional Basque fruit pie and plenty of information on local amenities and events. She even arranged for a charming cleaner called Claude to come during our stay.

Location

The location of Villa Kaioa, a converted ceramics workshop, was ideal. A path alongside the villa's garden meandered down to the quiet, sandy Erretegia beach, where you could swim, surf and sunbathe, with its own friendly little bar and restaurant. A five-minute walk the other way from the villa, along a cliff top lane took us to the centre of Bidart, with its bars and restaurants – such as the Mahaina and Pizzeria Bidart.

It’s just a short bus or car ride into Biarritz with its beautiful old hotels, thriving surfing beach, designer and vintage clothes shops and a great little airport. Ryan Air and easyjet fly here from Stansted and you can get a return ticket for just £110, depending on the season. Hop off the plane and on to a local bus which is just one euro to get to Biarritz town center or Bidart. Biarritz also offers the Plan Cousut Swimming-pool for aquagym and swimming lessons, thalassotherapy centres and spas. Nearby are Anglet: with its pine forest, lake and beaches and the fishing port of St Jean de Luz, with its historical houses, plus many other welcoming coastal towns and villages.

We stayed ten days, which wasn’t long enough, and returned home tanned, relaxed and content. Bidart was sublime and makes you see why the Basque people are so proud of their heritage and region.

FACTS

HOLIDAY LETTINGS / VILLA KAIOA:
Holiday Lettings offers villa holidays, apartments, cottages and other holiday homes in over 150 countries. Book your accommodation direct to save up to 40%. For Villa Kaioa visit www.holidaylettings.co.uk.
Details of our Bidart villa: http://www.holidaylettings.co.uk/rentals/biarritz/62702

BRITTANY FERRIES:

Brittany Ferries sail from Portsmouth and Plymouth to Santander and Bilbao in northern Spain. Return fares start from £129 per person based on a family of four travelling with their car and sharing an en suite cabin. Call 0871 244 1400 or visit www.brittany-ferries.co.uk

TOYOTA:
The Toyota Avensis, named by Top Gear as “A British built car that makes you proud” is available new from £17,7000. Visit www.avensis.co.uk