Family holiday in Denmark

Danish Delight

The Vikings came here from Denmark and Norway twelve centuries ago. So why not return the favour. Fiona Webster and family set sail for Denmark.

The Vikings came here from Denmark and Norway eight centuries ago. So why not return the favour. Fiona Webster and family set sail for Denmark.

IF you are fed up with the hordes back home or traditional holiday hotspots - head for Denmark.

It’s a country where you get a real taste of the place, not little Britain abroad. The Danes might be fluent in English, but they are proud of their heritage and don’t pander to British culture. But unlike some nationalities, they are not tired of the Brits – and you’ll find a warm welcome. Plus plenty of space to enjoy the rolling countryside and open roads - Denmark has population of just over five million.

Getting there is easy, you can fly to the capital Copenhagen in just two hours from London. But why fly when you can cross the sea as the Vikings once did? Though you might want to opt for the ferry rather than a longboat. Taking the ferry means you can enjoy all the comforts of a mini cruise, including a night in a luxury cabin and arrive refreshed from your journey rather than jaded by it.

If you take your car you don’t have to worry about lugging luggage– spare coats for unpredictable weather and sports equipment can be flung in the boot. We took the new Vauxhall Insignia, which had ample boot space and a plethora of gadgets to entertain us.

The ferry port at Harwich is easy to reach and about an hour from London, or the train, if you prefer, takes you straight to the harbour's edge. Dinner on board DFDS ferries is an experience. There’s a fine dining room with a la carte or you can opt for an all-inclusive buffet where starters include fresh prawns, oysters and salmon, and main courses range from traditional roast to oriental dishes. Service is efficient and the drink selection good, but be warned: here starts the Danish pricing, high because of stinging taxation. So wine is around 240 DDK (£30) a bottle or 47 DDK (£6) a glass.

There are plenty of facilities on board for both adults and children and with an overnight sleep in a very comfortable cabin, the journey time of around 18 hours sped by.

Driving across Denmark is easy. The roads are clear and well signposted and the island nature of the country means you are taken across bridges, some miles long, with stunning views over vast expanses of water.

It took us two hours to get from Esbjerg port down to the southern tip of Tasinge, one of the larger islands that make up the South Fyn archipelago in the south east.

Denmark has a network of inns and hotels that are ideal for an a la carte holiday, offering comfort, great food and a friendly welcome. First stop was Troense, a small maritime village of half timber houses and country lanes, and the Hotel Troense, a traditional, friendly hotel, overlooking the sea. It is ideal for exploring and they will even find you bikes so you can cycle to the nearby historical palace and majestic gardens of Valdemars Slot. Or you can step out of the hotel, stroll along the coast and watch the boats go by, maybe even take a dip – the water is clean here, if a little cold.

Across the sound is the lively town of Svendborg, with plenty of bistros, but if you don’t want to go far to eat, the Trosene Hotel restaurant offers a real smorgasbord of locally caught fish and both traditional and international dishes.

Exploring by water is a great way to see the coast. You can do it the easy way on one of the cutters that leave Troense pier and cruise the coast line. Or you can create your own itinerary by kayaking. Even if you have never tried this sport before you can be on the water in minutes- sharing a kayak if you’re an amateur or on your own if you’ve got experience.

Arrow Kayaks in Tasinge, charge 200 DKK (£25) for a single kayak four hours and 350 DDK (£43) for a double. You don’t need special equipment or clothes – you can Kayak in shorts and a tee shirt, or hire a wetsuit for the day for 50 DDK (£6). Arrow also offer five-day camping trips where you paddle to nearby islands, catch sea trout, have a barbeque and sleep under the stars. These adventures range from 75km to over 120km. Or you can just kayak by the hour as we did, for an experience that is exhilarating, scary and fun all at the same time.

If you want to learn more about Denmark’s history, head across country to Roskilde, a lively town that is proud of its heritage as a base for Viking expeditions. Roskilde has its own Viking museum, where you can see longboats being built for use today - a recent trip took some modern day Viking explorers to Ireland and Britain. Or visit the Stone Age settlement at the nearby Land of Legends, where you can live like our ancestors in huts, building fires and eating food you have cooked.

If you are staying in Roskilde the Hotel Prindsen, with its impressive façade and classical architecture, is right in the centre of the town, overlooking the lively main street, and perfect for sightseeing. The hotel offers spacious, stylish rooms with plenty of comfort and is ideal for couples and families. Hotel Prinsden prides itself on its fine-dining restaurant, clearly a favourite among discerning locals and returning travellers. Try the deer, which is beautifully cooked and presented.

Hotel Prinsden is a great choice for exploring Copenhagen - just 45 minutes away on the train: wise, as parking is difficult. Copenhagen is packed with galleries, eclectic shops, restaurants and wide boulevards where you can sit in cafes and watch the world go by.

We may not have travelled quite as the Vikings did, but we certainly tried a true taste of Demark – and it was worth it.

GO DENMARK
Best for: active holiday makers
Time to go: July and August - good deals available and weather is at its best
Don’t miss: Sea kayaking – ideal way to see the coast
Need to know: Prices are high due to Danish taxation, take a contingency fund!
Don’t forget: Your raincoat – weather can be unpredictable
Travel: By ferry: DFDS operate a roll on-roll off car ferry from Harwich to Ebsjerg An overnight trip and cabins are comfortable and ensuite. One car with four people and a cabin from £150.

Hotels: Hotel Troense if you book via www.krohotel.dk: 980 DDK (£123) per double room including breakfast (two people in a double room): Hotel Prindsen: 1,080 DDK (£135) for a double room including breakfast (two people).

Contact: www.visitdenmark.com, www.dfdsseaways.co.uk, www.krohotel.dk