Family Traveller
"The original and best family travel website"

Perfect Portugal holiday

Picture perfect Portugal

Laura Hall and her three children discover an off-beat corner of a country full of culture just a couple of hours from the UK.

Family holiday in Portugal

Hands up who’s been to Portugal? Most of you with younger children may have visited the resorts of the Algarve, where thousands of other Brits flock every year. Or perhaps a city trip to Lisbon, or for those not so interested in the beach, a port wine tour of Oporto? Well, the rest of Portugal is catching up and other Europeans aren’t as slow as the British to catch on. There are still vast areas of the country that are free from the hustle and bustle of big time tourism, and in just two and a half hours from here to there, you and your family could be unwinding in an unspoilt and peaceful haven. I took my two teenagers and one nine year old - and they loved it.
The Alentejo region stretches from Lisbon in the west to the Spanish border in the east and southwards stopping at the Algarve. It takes up a third of the country but is home to only one sixth of the population. Famous for its farm produce and a slower pace of life, Alentejo has managed to be bypassed by the big developers. Miles and miles of rolling landscapes punctuated by hill-crested medieval towns, stretch before you as you drive inland from Lisbon – hills swathed in vibrant wild flowers, with occasional fields of farmed olive trees and cork oaks.
For young history lovers it doesn’t get much better than this. Your children can explore caves with engravings, megaliths, aqueducts, monasteries, fortified cities, magnificent churches and castles. A busy region since Roman times, the architecture reveals the myriad of influences across the ages.
Driving south west from Lisbon on the traffic-free roads, you pass through many picturesque towns like Alvito and Viana do Alentejo, small fortified settlements dating back respectively to 14th and 15th centuries. Then on to Evora, the capital of upper Alentejo. Squeezed within Roman, medieval and 17th century walls, the city is so packed with precious architectural remains they had to declare it a Unesco World Heritage site. Among its many tourist attractions, Evora boasts a Roman temple, a magnificent 16th century gothic cathedral and a chapel made of human bones and skulls.
You can continue your historical experience when you check in for the night. Like Spain, Portugal boasts a countrywide chain of hotels, called Pousadas, that are mainly found in castles, monasteries or other unique buildings. Most towns have a pousada - the cuisine is second to none, specialising in regional dishes and wines, and the accommodation is of a very high standard. Visit www.pousadas.pt to see the full range available.
Amazingly the coastline has also remained untouched. The only sign of a tourist industry so far are entrepreneurs offering bird and dolphin watching boat trips out of Setubel. This is soon to change as a casino, marina and hotels are under construction on the sandy Troia peninsular, half and hour south of Lisbon. So if you like the more modern experience this could be for you, with health spa and golf courses on the doorstep with an amazing view across the Atlantic.
But if your family includes bird watchers and nature lovers, Alentejo is becoming the place to go in Portugal for outdoor pursuits. The tourist offices spread over the province have information on walking excursions in each region, usually relating a story about the area. And many unused railway lines have been turned in to eco-tracks for cyclists, horse riders and walkers.
If your children like cycling and hiking or you want a more active holiday try to avoid the height of the summer as inland temperatures can soar to over 40 degrees, or stay near to the coast. But the sun seems to shine all year here so for a spring or autumn break it ticks all the boxes.
Portugal is like its famous wines, which date back to Roman times – a combination of good taste, sunny climate and centuries of tradition.
If you and your brood want to just laze on the beach - understandable if they're tots or you just want to flop - stick to the main tourist areas. But if you're seeking something a little different and like exploring away from the beaten track - Portugal's countryside is a great choice.

GO PORTUGAL
HOW TO GET THERE:
Flights daily from Heathrow, Gatwick, Luton and Manchester by many airlines including KLM, British Airways, TAP Portugal, Air France, Lufthansa and Easyjet. Good deals on last minute airfare websites.
JOURNEY TIME: 21⁄2 hours from UK airports.
LANGUAGE: Portuguese but Spanish and English widely understood.
LOCAL DISH: Bacalhau dourado (cod scrambled with eggs, potatoes and onion) or Caldeirada (fish stew) if near the coast.
LOCAL DRINK: Red and white Alentejo wines.
WHERE TO STAY: Pousadas offer that unique Portuguese experience, visit www.pousadas.pt
OTHER INFO: For bird and dolphin-watching on the Sado river visit. www.rotasdosal.pt, and for local tourist information on walking and cycling trips go to www.visitalentejo.com